Holy Cow, What’s With The Attitude?

I mentioned the harrowing bus ride from Chennai to Karaikal in an earlier post. That seven hour trek was an interesting experience. I’ve heard stories of driving in India. They are all true. I'll get to that later.

In just a few short days, I’ve learned a few key facts about driving in India: there are no lanes or speed limits; a horn is as necessary and utilized more than brakes; and cows have the right of way. Cows? Yes, cows. They are considered sacred by the Hindu religion, which is predominant here. I asked about it.

India has 30% of the world's cattle. There are 26 distinctive breeds of cow in India. Here cows are everywhere! Because the cow is respected as a sacred animal, it's allowed to roam unharmed and undisturbed, and they are pretty used to the traffic and the rhythm of the city. So, you can see them roaming the streets in towns and cities, grazing on grass and munching away vegetables and garbage thrown out into the street. Stray and homeless cows are also supported by temples, especially in southern India where we are.

As the sheep is to Christianity, the cow is to Hinduism. Lord Krishna was a cowherder; today the cow has almost become a symbol of Hinduism. Though the cow is held sacred to the Hindus, it is not worshipped as a deity by all. The cow was deemed as the mother goddess in the early Mediterranean civilizations. The cow became important in India but only as a symbol of wealth. Of all gifts, the cow is still considered the highest in rural India.

So why all the fuss? It was explained to me that as opposed to the West, where the cow is widely considered as nothing better than walking hamburgers, in India, the cow is believed to be a symbol of the earth because it gives so much yet asks nothing in return. Because of its great economic importance, it makes good sense to protect the cow here. It is said Mahatma Gandhi became a vegetarian because he felt cows were ill-treated. Cows paid their dues to society some time ago by serving as a beast of burden in the farming culture. As repayment for their labors, they now are sacred and left to roam freely.

And what does a sacred cow do all day? Eat whatever they want. Wander aimlessly into traffic only to cause bikes to swerve, cars to steer into people walking in the street, and buses screech to a full stop – all without honking or any anger. Nevermind the terror for the passengers (we'll get to the passenger experience in another post). The more aware cow might turn its head slowly and acknowledge the havoc it has created, but most just casually amble on knowing that they are the poo here in India.

There is nothing in these streets that matters more than the cows and they seem to know it. Burger anyone?

One of the sacred beasts forages for an early
breakfast as the city wakes up to start a new day.

Tired of grazing on roadside garbage, this one plops down in the street (note the
curb behind it) exhausted by all the traffic and foraging.

PACU nurse Bruce pauses on the street for a photo
with a sacred cow who could care less about him with
so much fresh garbage to forage through.